Camel riding and dune climbing

First off, I'm sorry about how long it has been since I updated my blog. These past few weeks have been insanely busy with Arabic lessons in the morning, work at the National Park all day (which eneded up going much better than described in last post, but thats for a later post), then frequently joining Moroccan friends to celebrate ftour (sunset breaking of the Ramadan fast). And then each weekend would be full of traveling. This weekend's trip was incredibly unforgettable (I will try to talk about previous weekends in future blogs, but I just want to explain this one while its fresh in my mind). Six of the other AUA volunteers and I took a 6 hour van ride to spend 3 days in the Saharan Desert.

Friday night we all piled into a van to drive to Erg Chebbi part of the Sahara. When we arrived exhausted at our hotel, we discovered a lack of air conditioning in the rooms. That night was very hot, but thankfully we only would have one night actually in the hotel- the others were to be spent in the desert. The next morning dawned hot and dry. We got a tour of the hotel grounds that included date trees, camels, tents, and a pool where we spent the rest of the day. At 5:00 that evening we prepared to depart on camel.

First lesson learned was how to use a scarf to make a turban to keep us cool and to protect from the sun. Second lesson was how to ride a camel. Camels will lie in the sand with their front and back feet tucked under them so you can just swing your foot over their saddles, then hold on tight as they stand up. Word of advice- its more comfy to sit behind the hump than in front. There are no stirrups, so your legs just hang off the sides. The camels are all tied one after the other in a caravan led by a guide who walked through the sand. My camel was the leader for a while, until he saw a dune he didn't feel like walking up. We named our camels- mine was TJ, and also in the caravan was Jeremiah, Lawrence, Mohamed, Buster, Maverick, and Cramer. Each had their own personality and unique traits. Camels look rather like brontosaurus dinosaurs with their long legs and necks.

We rode through small dunes with rocky sand for over an hour. I was surprised at how many plants were there. Our destination was a small structure built of mud-brick where a Berber family lived. Our guide laid blankets on the ground where we all collapsed, sore from the camel ride. We watched as the sunset over the desert to make way for the most stars I have seen in my life. We saw a lot of shooting stars too. We slept on the blanket. It got really cold in the middle of the night. We rode back to the hotel right after sunrise.

The rest of the day was spent driving around to different sites in the desert such as an oasis where palm trees grew and a town where we listened to traditional gnawa music. Lunch consisted of a delicious Berber pizza which is beef, onion, potato and carrots cut up small baked between two thin pieces of bread.

That evening we set out on camel again, this time through the taller dunes. They towered over us as we rode through them to a set of tents. The tents were more luxurious than the previous night and included cushions to sleep on. We had a dinner of lentil soup, vegetables and fruit and danced to drums played by the guides. Then our guide suggested that we walk to the top of the dune. He literally meant the top too. At the start of the journey I didn't realize how tall the dune would be, but after over an hour of fighting up the sand, we reached a spectacular view. Off in the distance the lights of the city were visible, and a million stars glimmered in the sky. To get back we slid down on our butts for the steepest part. It was really fun with the minor exception of my pants getting a hole in them.The dune below is the one that we climbed in the middle of the night.

We rode back the next morning, rather sleep deprived, but happy. The van ride back to Ifrane included a lot of sleeping. The trip to the desert was truly unforgettable and I'm so glad I went.

Chaos Theory

After an exciting weekend of hiking, I was prepared to start work at the center for the Ifrane National Park. The Monday started with an Arabic lesson from our awesome professor. Arabic is a very different language English, and also from French which I took in high school. Its a challenge, but having a good teacher helps. I'm hoping that by the end of my trip I will know at least the basics of Moroccan Arabic. Its such a pretty language.

Day 1 did not go as expected. A slight problem with the lunches on the first day left us quickly grabbing granola bars from the campus store before the volunteers working at the park, as well as 2 other NGOs got into an old Mercedes to be driven to the next town over for our work. Somewhere mid- morning I went to use the toilet only to discover that it did not flush automatically and I had to pour water down to force it to flush. I also found no toilet paper in the bathroom. Luckily for lunch our coordinators meet us at a cafe so we did not have to survive on only granola bars.

Chaos continued in the afternoon. I went on a bus with a bunch of campers (probably ages 6-14) to help the environmental educator to teach the kids about water at a local lake. Well...not so local- we drove for over half an hour when suddenly a loud bump let us know that the bus had a flat tire. We walked with the kids for a bit before realizing the lake was too far for them to get to before it was time to leave. Despite the language barrier, it was really fun interacting with the campers. I got to practice my French and even use a little Arabic. Childhood fun is universal. The kids played the same types of games on the bus, and they all like my cats-cradle string tricks just like the kids I worked with in the US did.

The following day proved no less chaotic. The head of the environmental education program had to leave early unexpectedly that day. Unfortunately this was the day that 2 groups each with around 20 seven year olds showed up for a tour of the eco- museum. I did my best to explain the objects and pictures in the museum. Some of the kids really seemed to enjoy it, but I felt bad because some of them did not understand my English, and there were many questions I did not know the answers to in my 2 days at work.

As the week continued on things got less chaotic. I am learning to take things as they come and be ready for anything. Every event is a learning experience. Right now I'm working on planting saffron in the garden at the park. Its hard work, but I've learned a lot about this rare plant, and hopefully I can share this knowledge through the garden. Also I've learned a lot about gardening. I know that there will be stressful times at this job, but in the end I will have learned a ton and hopefully made a meaningful difference.

Mountains, vallys, farms, fields, and donkeys

The past few days have been a complete whirlwind. The weekend was spent hiking in the Mid-Atlas mountains. Our hike started out at 9 am, and little did we know what we were in for. Our guide took us on a some gorgeous trails through the mountains of the national park. Unlike in the US where national parks are almost entirely for preservation of nature, this park has many little houses and villages throughout. People herd sheep and grow plants within the confines of the park. Throughout our walk there were sheep, donkeys, orchards, and agricultural fields alongside forests, mountains, and lakes.

A little afternoon we arrived at a guesthouse along the way where we had Moroccan salad for lunch and fresh fruit for dessert. Afterwards some of us went paddleboating. Oh... and the coolest part- I got to ride a donkey! I was walking along and there was a kid riding a donkey and I asked if I could take a picture, and he offered me a ride! I felt bad for the donkey though- I definitely was heavier than the kid he was used to carrying.

After lunch we hiked for another two hours until we reached another guesthouse which was absolutely adorable, and a very comfortable place to rest after a 7 hour hike. The owners were so welcoming. That night there was an Imazighan (also called Berber- they are a people who are native to Morocco and have their own unique cultures and traditions) wedding. In their culture, everyone from the village is invited to the wedding, and they let us come along too. The guests all sit under a huge tent- women on one side men on the other. In front of the tent men play drums to build up the anticipation for when the bride and groom arrive. We got to dance along with the rest of the guests. Unfortunately since the ceremony started around 11, we had to leave before it was over, but just being there for a while was really fun.

The next morning we headed out again for another hike- this time only 5 hours, but taking us to a lake and along the country side. On our way we meet a women's weaving group. They showed us how they turn sheep and goat wool into tents. The women were so welcoming; they even gave us each some mint tea. After finally returning to the guesthouse we were all exhausted, but happy to have seen such a beautiful landscape and such important elements of a culture that most visitors do not get to experience.

and here starts the adventure

Five days into my trip and I already have proven myself wrong about my expectations of Morocco. I had a beer with dinner of tagine on the first day in Casablanca, wore a bikini to the beach, and the university has pizza available everyday (along with a lot of Moroccan dishes). Although some things are the same as in the US, I'm also getting to try many new experiences and meet a lot of great people... and the trip has only just started.

For my time in Casablanca I had booked a hotel and organized a shuttle with them. Customs took about 2 hours, and then I spent another hour waiting at the wrong baggage claim (not my fault! I asked and that's where I was told). The shuttle driver did not wait for me and I had a panicked moment where I didn't know how I would get back. A cab driver helped me call the hotel and they said they had already left so he helped me get a cab into the city. A woman who spoke English asked if I wanted to split a cab because it would be cheaper, so I did. We talked in the cab and I told I didn't know anybody in the city and she invited me to stay with her and her two sons. This is the view from the house.

Moroccan hospitality is amazing. The woman and her family and their family friends were so nice. I went to the beach with them each day. The beach was very different than a US beach. For one, there were people giving horse rides on the beach. Dogs were allowed on the beach (and the family had the most adorable little puppy). Tables and chairs were available for free. There were no lifeguards. People played soccer by the water. There was a diversity of attires for women- some wore complete coverings while others had on two piece bathing suits.

I got to try some delicious Moroccan food. One of my favorites was the Moroccan mint tea. It was so sweet and fresh tasting. I don't know how I will go back to Lipton in a paper bag when I return home. After Casablanca I went back to the airport to wait for the other AUA volunteers to arrive. Unfortunately several of their bags got very delayed. We waited for 5 hours at the airport, and some still didn't get their bags. Afterwards we drove the four hours to Ifrane.

We are staying on the university of Al Akhawayn in dorms shared with Moroccan roommates. On our second day in Ifrane we toured all the places that people in the group would volunteer. The national park office has an amazing museum and the garden has a lot of potential. I look forward to working there. For lunch we got a homecooked meal of cous cous from a woman working at youth without borders. Cous cous is so good- it is a pasta that is in very tiny grains and was served in a big clay bowl with lots of vegetables. Its only served on Fridays.

 We toured the campus in the afternoon, and then went to visit  the Tarmilat village outside of the city. Although they live in poverty, the women weavers who we visited were so welcoming. They invited us into their house and we had tea and malawi bread. Then we played soccer with the kids. Although none of the children spoke English (or even French which I speak a little of, and which is a common business language in Morocco), sports are universal, and I had so much fun. Although Morocco is very different than the US in many ways, when it comes down to it we are all people who laugh, smile, enjoy good food, value our family and friends. I look forward to understanding this fascinating culture better with its friendly people, beautiful scenery, and delicious food.

If you don't get on this plane you will regret it...

Bags packed…check! Plane tickets printed…check! Ready for an amazing summer…check! So what am I doing this summer? Well, first off what I’m not going to be doing is sitting in a bikini by the pool sipping a Budweiser and eating Dominos ham and pineapple pizza. What I will be doing is working at a beautiful national park in the mountains of Morocco where I will be helping create an environmental education program and restoring a garden. I look forward to immersing myself in a fascinating and unique culture while doing meaningful work. 

My name is Jenny Lee, and I recently graduated Washington College with an environmental studies degree. My hometown is Wilmington, DE (about 3 hours south of New York City). This summer I will be working at the Parc National D’Ifrane which covers 500 km² in the Moyan Atlas Mountains in Central Morocco (near Fes). My job will be to make the environmental education projects more interactive. Also I will be helping revitalize a garden in need of restoration.  I'll be living at the Al Akhawayn University and taking Arabic classes there.

 

During my senior year I was searching for some type of meaningful work after college. I love to travel so I wanted something that would allow me to see more of the world and to be immersed in another culture as more than just a tourist. America’s Unofficial Ambassadors seems like the perfect fit…I have a chance to live and work in Morocco, learn Arabic, eat authentic Moroccan food, interact with a Moroccan roommate, haggle for items in the marketplace and truly understand and appreciate the culture. I speak some French, and I look forward to practicing that more as well as learning Arabic. The people I will meet, and experiences I will have will hopefully expand my view of the world. 

Throughout  my six weeks in Morocco I hope to make a lasting impression at the park by helping create an interactive education program and displays in the visitors center that can be carried on easily after I have left. Also I hope to improve the garden and make it a place that will farther enrich the experience of a national park visitor. It will not be an easy task; many things I take for advantage doing work in the US will not be the same, such as everyone I interact with speaking the same language. My time in Morocco should be both challenging and fun. Although I am slightly nervous, I cannot wait for my trip to begin. 

Before I start my job, I'm going to take a chance to see Casablanca. So many people I asked if I have seen the movie Casablanca (if you haven't seen it yet, I highly recommend it, even though it has very little about the actual city in it), so that is how this blog and the first post got their name.